Most people love having attractive grounds around their homes—the problem is that ordinary homeowner’s insurance does not usually cover landscaping. How do you know if they have adequate coverage for the work you’ve put into your yard?

Introduction to Homeowners Insurance

Homeowner’s insurance policies are meant for permanent residents who do not leave their homes vacant for over 60 days. While HO-6 policies provide more coverage than the more popular HO-3 ones, there are still some exclusions that may leave the home vulnerable, especially the landscaping.

The materials and plants used in landscaping can be expensive and it’s important to insure them against possible damage. The good news is that the average HO-3 policy provides coverage for landscaping. The bad news is that the policy does not cover everything. The perils covered include:

• Explosions, lightning or fires
• Civil commotions or riots
• Aircrafts or automobiles not operated or owned by anyone residing in the home
• Vandalism or malicious mischief
• Theft

This list leaves out other important things. For instance, what happens if a tree falls and destroys part of the landscaping? There is no coverage for wind and other things that may fell a tree in the compound, including diseases.

In addition, only five percent of the value of policy goes towards the protection of plants in the landscaping. There are also dollar limits for particular plants where each plant is generally covered for up to $500.

Understanding What is Covered

Homeowners insurance does not cover landscaping in all circumstances. Going back to the tree examples, a policy may cater to the repairs on a structure in the compound and removal of the fallen tree but not the cost of replacing it. Many insurance companies shun covering landscaping because of the difficulties involved in estimating the associated value.

It is therefore important for you to read between the lines and determine exactly what their policies cover. It may be necessary to take additional coverage depending on the values of the trees and plants in the compound.

What Homeowners May Do

You may add endorsements to their standard policies to raise the limit per plant from $500 to $1000. They can also add other riders to provide coverage against things like hail, wind, and snow. Taking extra precautions can be important when considering the damage that falling trees may leave behind.

It is also important to know the plants that form part of the landscaping and those that don’t. For example, potted plants that are not fixed to the ground are not considered part of the landscaping. They are insured under personal property because they can be carried from one location to another. Of course, things may get tricky depending on the size of the potted plant.

You need to understand the difference between policies to ensure you have relevant and sufficient cover. This is especially important when it comes to landscaping where many things may be left out.

Andrew Greene is a freelance insurance writer who blogs for ppiclaims.org.uk, a site he recommends to anyone who wants to learn more about ppi.

Having a small dorm room is something every college student can expect. With such a limited living space, it is easy to run out of room to put everything. To avoid feeling like a sardine in a can, use these helpful tips for maximizing space without sacrificing style.

Learn to love crates and boxes

There is no need to settle for plain cardboard boxes or ugly old crates. It is easy to find storage boxes made from plastic or wood, and crates are available in nearly every color. Many popular discount stores sell colored crates that can be easily stacked. Boxes can be painted to match the color or decor of the room. Use these boxes and crates everywhere. By stacking them in closets and along walls, it is cheap and easy to make attractive storage spaces. They are perfect for clothes, shoes, books or accessories.

Buy several under-the-bed totes

Some college students are lucky enough to have bunk beds with large drawers below the frames. However, if there is empty space under the bed, it can be a great place to store seasonal clothes, shoes or anything else. Purchase some long flat totes. In addition to keeping out bugs and dust, these totes make the room look tidier and more attractive.

Make the most of the closet

Be sure to hang the thinnest clothes in the closet. If bulky sweaters or coats are hung in the closet, it will become full quickly. Save bulky items for under-the-bed totes. Sweaters can be packed down to fit, or they can be placed in crates. Purchase a shoe rack that hangs on a door. If a closet has sliding doors, put the shoes in crates. In some cases, it may be possible to add another hanger rod in the closet. Ask the RA before doing this. Another option is to purchase a tension rod, which does not require drilling, nailing or damage to the walls. Keep in mind that only lightweight clothing can be hung on a tension rod.

Buy some storage pillows

Most college students love to accent their beds with decorative pillows. Although batting-filled pillows are attractive, they do not serve a useful purpose. To enjoy some extra storage space, buy some pillows that are designed to hold clothes, books or other accessories. They can be used to store anything that can fit into them.

These are the best ways to make a tiny dorm room look as spacious as it possibly can. Decorations are also important. Keep them simple, and avoid using too many. Using plain bright colors, stripes, animal print or polka dots is best. Avoid small patterns with intricate details, which make a room look smaller. It is also important to avoid cluttering the room with tiny decorations. They make it harder to clean, and that is usually the last thing on any college student’s mind. Organized students tend to get better grades, so make organization a high priority.

Tanya Mitchell is a part time writer and nurse looking for the right online masters degree programs in nursing so she can study from home.

The Unorthodox Way to Hang Wallpaper Murals

When I moved to Colorado, one of the first things I did was look for a place to live. I found a property that was close to foreclosure, and since the price was so unbelievable, I pulled the trigger without really taking a look at what I was getting into.

For better or for worse, I found myself in a situation where I had a house with a lot of work needed, and with no money in my pocket to hire someone to do it. So I turned to DIY home care, and I have never looked back. I wrote another article about the biggest problem I had to face, which was to remove the lead-based paint from the walls.

One of the walls that I removed the paint from looked really worse for wear, and I was nervous to re-paint over it. Instead, I was able to get a great deal on a couple of wall murals of the New York skyline; and since this wall was in my office, and I’m from New York, I purchased it on the spot.

Proper Hanging of Wallpaper Murals:

The usual preparation steps to hanging any sort of wallpaper apply to murals as well. First you need to remove any old wall coverings, and if there is paint, use sandpaper to make it rough. After, take a soapy solution and wash the walls to get any dirt and grime off of it. Wallpaper adhesive will not stick to anything other than clean, dry wall, so take time to make sure that everything is removed.

Next, most guides will tell you to start on one side, and evenly apply the wallpaper across the wall. I diligently went to YouTube and watched half-dozen videos, and then went straight to ruining my first mural.

The reason the wall mural was ruined is because of a principle known as Occam’s Razor. For those unfamiliar, Occam’s Razor is a principle of reasoning that states that given two scenarios, the one with fewer assumptions or the simpler scenario will most likely be correct. For example, it is a windy day, and you come upon a tree fallen across the road. Occam’s razor states that it is far more likely that the wind blew the tree down directly, rather than blowing a UFO out of the sky that knocked the tree over.

The reason I bring up that reasoning principle is that from the very first SECOND of hanging the wall mural, I knew something was wrong.

The Intuitive Solution:

The problem with hanging the mural the same was as regular wallpaper is apparent in the design. Wallpaper is usually meant to cover an entire wall, and because of that, is generally uniform in design and color. This allows for small imperfections to be lost in the total design of the wall. Since gravity is a constant force, no matter how hard you try to hang wallpaper side-to-side, there is going to be a bit of a screw-up.

When you have to hang a mural, you realize immediately that any fold, bubble, or screw-up in general will be immediately visible. Unlike a uniform pattern, each piece of a mural is a part of a whole, and it’s paramount to make everything count.

So I purchased another identical mural, prepared my wall again, and decided to throw conventional wisdom out the window and rely on intuition. Instead of trying to fight gravity, I would use it; and instead of trying to work with a 8 foot wide canvas all at once, I would do it in sections.

I started at the top of the mural, with the plan to work in sections, all the way down the wall. I drew pencil lines in 1ft sections, and would paste the mural in 8 steps. What this method allows you to do is concentrate on the section that you are working on at the moment. If you put a whole bunch of adhesive down alone, then you are working with a huge piece of paper and trying to stick it to your wall within 5 minutes. Wrinkles, rips, and bubbles are bound to occur.

Only stick each foot to the wall, 1 at a time, and you will find that you can dedicate your full attention to getting a small section perfect, and when you add it all up at the end, you have an expertly-hung wall mural.

Pete Wise is a DIY home improver and a content creation machine. This article was written for Discount Decorating, the largest vendor of wallpaper and wallpaper borders on the internet. If you like DIY articles, find a full list of them at Pete’s Google+ Page

To reduce labor and project costs, making concrete is a good way to save money; as well as improve your own construction know-how.

Equipment Needed

• Mixing box or wheel barrow
• Shovel
• Mason’s Hoe
• Metal Slump Cone

Materials Needed

• Portland cement (Type I or Type II)
• Aggregate (crushed limestone, gravel or rocks)
• Sand (Masonry, Builder’s or another type of clean sand)
• Flat Board

Instructions

1. Accurately measure the form the concrete will fill. The form must be leveled and braced properly. Measure the height or depth, length and width of the form.
2. In the mixing box or wheel barrow, pour the Portland cement and sand into the box. The correct ratio should be 1:2 or 1:3; that is, one part Portland cement, two or three parts sand.
3. After sharing out the Portland cement and sand, add the aggregate to the dry mixture. The aggregate (gravel, crushed limestone or rocks) should be shared to about five parts aggregate to one part cement and sand mix.
4. The aggregate is used to fill the space in the mix and does not affect the tensile strength of the finished concrete.
5. With the adequate aggregate added to the dry mixture, slowly introduce water to the mixture. Mix in the water with the dry mixture until the mixture becomes pliable for pouring into the form. Measure this consistency with the metal slump cone.
6. Continue mixing the concrete until completely uniform. Continue mixing the concrete for two to four minutes to initiate the hydration process, which causes the concrete to form and harden.
7. Once the mixture is uniform, pour the concrete into the form and float the mixture. Floating is the process by which the concrete mixture is flattened and leveled using the flat board. Drag the board across the surface of the mixture, with the board tilted upwards, to make an even and level surface.
8. After floating the mixture, leave the mixture to set and allow grout or cement paste to rise to the surface. Leave the concrete to set for at least 24 to 72 hours depending on the amount used.

Tips, Warnings and Recommendations

• Always clean all tools and equipment used immediately after use especially rented equipment. Hardened concrete is difficult to remove from tools and equipment.
• For large areas, employ the use of a concrete mixer for easy mixing and pouring of the concrete.
• Using a ratio of one part Portland cement to three parts sand usually yields the appropriate tensile strength for housing slab foundations and the construction of sidewalks.
• Do not use too much aggregate in the mixture as too much will prevent a smooth finish on the surface of hardened concrete. Use a shovel-full as a measurement for one part.
• The concrete’s consistency is measured is measured by filling a metal slump cone with wet concrete then lifting the cone off. The amount of sag or slump recorded for the mixture will indicate the concrete’s slump. Acceptable slump of concrete ranges between three and four inches.

For more information on concrete, read How to Build a Concrete Slab and How Much Does Concrete Cost.

Most professional tree service companies perform stump grinding and stump removal services along with tree removal. They know the importance of removing old stumps for five very legitimate reasons.

Pedestrian Hazard

Depending on where the tree stump is located, it can be a danger to passersby. Some stumps are hard to see, easily disguised amongst tall grass, pine straw or mulch. Removing tree stumps near public walkways will eliminate the potential for anyone to trip and fall, which can result in an injury lawsuit. Grinding stumps also makes it easier and faster to mow your lawn and makes it safe for children to play.

Ruin Curb Appeal

Tree stumps are completely unnecessary and are ugly to look at. Having a rotting stump in your front yard or in front of your business can reduce curb appeal and devalue your home. If you’re looking to sell your home, or rent your property, stump removal is definitely one of the first things that should be done. Large stumps from oak trees or old pines can also make your yard look smaller, which decreases appeal as well.

Spread Tree Disease

Trees in certain geographical areas are more susceptible to tree diseases than others. Decaying wood from old stumps is a likely place for tree diseases to inhabit. Diseased wood can easily spread to other plants on your property and cause deformation or even death to other trees in the area. Removing the threat of devastating tree diseases will ensure your property is protected against advancing infection.

Promote Regrowth

In most cases tree stumps are the left behind parts of fallen or removed trees, and still considered alive. If they continue to stay rooted in the ground there is potential for the tree to regrow. This is especially true for smaller trees and shrubs. Trees that were removed near sidewalks or driveways may still have an active root system and continue to spread. These roots can then crack, bulge or break apart concrete or asphalt surfaces. Removing the entire root system ensures absolutely no regrowth.

Harbor Insects

Similar to the spread of tree disease, tree stumps are the perfect haven for insects. Insects feed on the decaying remains of the tree introducing parasites and other fungi that promote bacterial infestation as well – which can lead to tree disease. However, insects themselves can be dangerous to your property. Pests such as bees, hornets, wasps and termites are dangerous to passersby, children playing in the yard or visitors. Larger stumps can even house small rodents such as mice, moles, and squirrels. Eliminate the risk of harmful stings and tree diseases by grinding stumps into nutrient-rich mulch instead.

Whatever your reason for removing stumps from your property, there are many benefits to getting rid of it. You’ll be able to enjoy your property without having to mule over what to do with the rotting tree carcass. The number one reason why so many people don’t get rid of stumps is because they think it will cause a mess. But with professional tree grinding, the surrounding grass or sidewalk is left intact and the job is finished within an hour. True professionals only leave behind a small mound of mulch that can be used as bedding for other plants in your yard.

Syd Martin writes for Premiere Tree Services and writes articles about nature, environmental issues and green living.